Monday, July 27, 2009

Yesterday our west coast saw one of the most epic swells I've seen in years. Solid, easy 10-12 foot, sucking barrels. All time is under rating it as I was speechless.

I had some of the best waves of my life, though unfortunately the best wave was, after a long, on the edge tube run, brutal as it crushed me shortly after this doggy door exit.

Of course I utterly reject the insinuations of my 'friend' Richie, those insinuations relating to me allegedly photoshopping myself at reduced size onto a three foot wave.

The other chap in the photo was just unusually tall and he threw the apparent scale way out.

Or not.

The other shots are a little break we spotted on the high tide on the way home, dammit, and some old boofhead riding straight in at the end of our earlier session.

We photographed him on leaving the water and why someone of such advanced years even bothers to dip his toe in the water is beyond me.

He was riding a 5'10" speed dialer quad shaped by NZ guru Roger Hall, which he said was on loan from a kiwi pal.

Clearly he was delusional to even take the thing out in the water.


Anonymous said...

On another note, I'll be in Victoria this November and would love to meet up with you if your around. Perhaps a surf at Bells?
I'll send an email as the date gets closer.
Hope you're well.

Anonymous said...

great photos