Monday, January 09, 2012

Today, after missing out on a few very good days at the beach as we begin house hunting on the coast, and as I'd worked the entire weekend sitting editing another 'project' I snuck down for a quick surf in anticipation of the swell leaping skywards and me getting a bit of "wheeeee!!!" time.

Everyone else had the same idea.

And a contest was on at Bells.

So, after sitting watching far, far better surfers than me doing their thirty years younger thing I slipped out to join the 60 odd other guys in the line up at fun but inconsistent Winki. I did say to myself if I come away with one good wave I'll have done alright so equanimity was the face I wore and it was a surprisingly fun session.

A few friends littered the pack. Having a chat and a lot of patience meant, despite the crowd, no one was really stressed.

Have a chat. Catch a wave. Talk some more.

The way it should be.

The pic. One of the occasional sets, keeping the boys and girls honest.

Wednesday, January 04, 2012

The year is done and gone, I can't remember one I've been more glad to be rid of, as it was full of heartache and pain.

The world has pitched and yawed, and so has mine, with Dear Old Dad leaving us, and my darling kids going through more than the share normally expected of the transition years. Thankfully the problems are not to do with health or accident, just an exaggerated version of the trials that come with sticking your nose up against the world, or your Mum and Dad, and saying, "Go on, have a go!'.


To all of you out there I hope this coming year is kind or kinder. Happy New Year.

My surfing entry to it wasn't half bad, with a solid onshore session at largish Bells last week, and some pretty tasty lefts on the weekend.

Punctuating this was a call from Tyler Breuer from Smashsurf, wanting to do an interview with me on my life after Musica Surfica. Here it is. You might like to know what's up next.

My pics for the day are the two surfs above. The onshore Bell's was before it kicked to double the size and became really great fun as there were only four or five out.