Today, after missing out on a few very good days at the beach as we begin house hunting on the coast, and as I'd worked the entire weekend sitting editing another 'project' I snuck down for a quick surf in anticipation of the swell leaping skywards and me getting a bit of "wheeeee!!!" time.
Everyone else had the same idea.
And a contest was on at Bells.
So, after sitting watching far, far better surfers than me doing their thirty years younger thing I slipped out to join the 60 odd other guys in the line up at fun but inconsistent Winki. I did say to myself if I come away with one good wave I'll have done alright so equanimity was the face I wore and it was a surprisingly fun session.
A few friends littered the pack. Having a chat and a lot of patience meant, despite the crowd, no one was really stressed.
Have a chat. Catch a wave. Talk some more.
The way it should be.
The pic. One of the occasional sets, keeping the boys and girls honest.
Everyone else had the same idea.
And a contest was on at Bells.
So, after sitting watching far, far better surfers than me doing their thirty years younger thing I slipped out to join the 60 odd other guys in the line up at fun but inconsistent Winki. I did say to myself if I come away with one good wave I'll have done alright so equanimity was the face I wore and it was a surprisingly fun session.
A few friends littered the pack. Having a chat and a lot of patience meant, despite the crowd, no one was really stressed.
Have a chat. Catch a wave. Talk some more.
The way it should be.
The pic. One of the occasional sets, keeping the boys and girls honest.
2 comments:
Funny! We wrote practically the same post today (mine was back-dated for effect though). Ha!
Lineups and surfing, huh.
It does always work (patience, a wee yarn, giving away a few waves). And the rewards looked fine - lucky man.
Happy house hunting.
Btw, have you taken that 6'10 MC on its maiden voyage yet?
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