Tuesday, December 20, 2011

The sound of the gnashing of teeth and the rending of garments is loud and being heard from every corner of Victoria at the moment, and no it is not because Kim Jong Il has bitten the proverbial bullet.

It's been near flat for weeks, and though I might paint a rosy picture with the pics today and those from last week, the truth is it is ugly. I can only hope that after Christmas some drought breaking swells arrive with happy winds to put some smiles back on a few faces.

Until I have something more to report or get a burst of inspiration I'll leave you with a couple of pics from Sunday. At the bottom end of what I can actually get to my feet in, the waves were pretty well shaped and fun until the swell Disappeared Completely. I wonder if Radiohead were playing over the top of the dunes?

PS: The first pic is a plant.

Monday, December 12, 2011

The Devil Winds ended for a morning and half an afternoon on Saturday, hot with a light breeze that slowly accelerated from the north, but not before gifting a couple of very fun sessions, lefts and rights, fun and games over two banks, with lunch in between, before a whopping storm hit and blew it all to bits.

That new board from Maurice is the duck's nuts, and it is clear any limitations are the plonker with his feet planted on the deck.

Easy into waves, fast, loose, but when you push it holds and it really does like to be put on its rail. I even managed to pigdog one of the larger lefts on takeoff and had a 'view' for a moment before getting swallowed.

That being said my good mate Richie maintains I still plant my top turn a little low and more 2:30 than 12 o'clock though he did concede I did whip one off worth a nod of approval. All I can say is good thing he isn't an ASP judge because had he judged me under that criteria I'd probably be summarily executed.

My other surfing highpoint of the weekend though was sneaking a few sessions viewing the Pipe Masters online and shedding a small tear for Kieran Perrow. It was so good to see someone being recognised for doing what he does best and loves most. Courageous surfing in heavy waves. Not frilly or flash. Strong, solid and when he did win all were happy.

Pics for tody: The left after the wind started to get into it, and the second front pushing through on the way home.


Thursday, December 01, 2011

Almost two weeks without going near this door crack to another dimension, mostly because I haven't had much time, or perhaps because the old brain has had the fuzzies, what with 'life and all".

High point for a moment the week before last was trying a new board. If you don't surf you won't understand but getting new, lively glass and foam under the feet, feeling it out and seeing where it takes you, pushing lightly then pushing harder, asking I wonder if and getting an answer that shouts yes, well... it might be fleeting but I'll take that kind of ephemeral any day of the week.

And who cares if my bum sticks out sometimes.

Since then the weather has shifted into one of those devil systems.

An Oceanic Bad Hair Week.. or two.

Elsewhere thinking and planning for The Reef project, ... and again trying to make a buck, which is full of promise but no golden eagles crapping near me today. Fingers crossed for the next few days but until then a little snip from partner in crime Jonny Frank and the Glide. From this you can see why I'm looking forward to the next gig. 

The boards by the way are a six two and six ten, for the bigger days. Six two gets a big tick, the other will have to wait for a swell.

Pretty aren't they?