Almost two weeks without going near this door crack to another dimension, mostly because I haven't had much time, or perhaps because the old brain has had the fuzzies, what with 'life and all".
High point for a moment the week before last was trying a new board. If you don't surf you won't understand but getting new, lively glass and foam under the feet, feeling it out and seeing where it takes you, pushing lightly then pushing harder, asking I wonder if and getting an answer that shouts yes, well... it might be fleeting but I'll take that kind of ephemeral any day of the week.
And who cares if my bum sticks out sometimes.
Since then the weather has shifted into one of those devil systems.
An Oceanic Bad Hair Week.. or two.
Elsewhere thinking and planning for The Reef project, ... and again trying to make a buck, which is full of promise but no golden eagles crapping near me today. Fingers crossed for the next few days but until then a little snip from partner in crime Jonny Frank and the Glide. From this you can see why I'm looking forward to the next gig.
The boards by the way are a six two and six ten, for the bigger days. Six two gets a big tick, the other will have to wait for a swell.
Pretty aren't they?