Safetosea

Every so often we get hit with an unusual surf event, and today our coast was at the receiving end of a swell generated 7000 km west of here in the vicinity of Heard Island where I've heard (ahem) it's been a bit blowy.

This has resulted in an unusually long period swell of about 22 seconds reaching us around lunchtime today.

As we all know, long period means groomed and powerful, and these babies packed a punch. A very westerly direction meant a lot of size was taken off from the fifteen foot thumpers giving the down south locals a joyride, so we had to settle with about a third that by the time it rounded the Cape.

With massive waits between sets, every so often 5-6ft steam trains, straight as arrows, would come hurtling in, and for a lucky few, amongst the many hopefuls, a magic carpet ride awaited.

It was pretty busy, upwards of 40 out at Bells/Rincon at one stage, and though polite, the crowd was competing.

I opted to sit on the Bowl, which was filling up with the tide and the crowd thinning as many moved up the line to RIncon. My strategy was that the odd bomb might find me alone, and for three waves, one of them beyond bliss, I was right. A speedy run and three or four butter smooth off the tops had me thinking I was about to wake up to find daisies stapled to my nipples and the Russian National Anthem tattooed on my willie. (In very small print)

Alas, or should I say fortunately, it was true.

The wave... not the willy.

I was a very lucky boy.

Pics... a couple of long period screamers without a stapler or tattooist in sight.