Tuesday, December 09, 2008

Finally, finally... I managed a surf over the weekend.... in the most mindbogglingly crap waves I've ever paddled out in, Bells the venue and I was by myself for most of the time.

That bad. A Sunday. Alone. At Bells Beach.

So out I paddle on my finless Derek Hynd experiment and had a ball falling off for three hours. A few times mixed in there I made some distance and eventually a young guy named Ben paddled out and remarked he thought I'l left my fins off the board until he woke up to the strange bottom contours.

Naturally I did nothing except examine the sea bottom that time, while another on another wave the rail of the board closely examined the area between my legs.

Though not too hard, it was enough to make me concentrate a little more.

So thanks Derek... I wouldn't have even paddled out otherwise.

My big surprise though was that the post op wounds and soreness prove to be no hindrance at all... so I'm back in action... albeit with a still puffy tummy... or perhaps that is old age.

We'll see.

Yesterday... I spent the day shooting cows.

I've got an advertising job going at the moment and went out to a dairy farm to do a TVC, and discovered I have a perhaps worrysome affinity with my bovine friends.

A pity I like steak so much.

4 comments:

Alan_M said...

Glad you're back in action Mick. Looking forward to more finless reports.

nursemyra said...

love the cow shot. hope you continue to recover and surf....

clayfin said...

three hours on your first post op dip? That's outstanding!

Great cow photo.

Doc said...

You inspired my latest post Mick...