Saturday, June 28, 2008

A bit of action yesterday with a big swell that had been predicted arriving.

A solid 8-10 feet with bigger sets, and one of the biggest crowds I'd seen out at Bells at that size. Lot's of big boards and everyone having a good dig, it was fun and games for all.

Very consistent, with a screaming offshore, and even a tow team getting a few bombs up on the Centreside through Rincon section. If you look carefully in one of the shots below you'll see them out the back waiting for a big one. Long walls with not much room for anything but massive speed runs but they looked like they were having fun.

As for me, I got about 6 waves in three hours, one big bomb which drew some hoots, another couple of good ones, and one monumental stuff up towards the end, where, tired and cold, and attempting a late take off on a larger one, my legs didn't want to do what they were supposed to do (ie stand up!), and, paralyzed from the waist down I went over the falls buried in the lip, a long weightless wait with me thinking "oooh this feel nice" followed by KABOOM, drag, drag, drag, gurgle, gurgle, wait some more and come up with pretty stars in front of me.

I had to laugh. Old Coot.

Paddled back out and called it a day with one last one that took me in.

Can't get down today but it's doing it again.

PS: Secret Big Wave Spot Down South was reportedly over 20 feet with three tow teams out.

PPS: Guess who's got a new camera?


tonyf said...

Regarding your blog Safe to surf
I have added your blog to the bloglist Check it out.
Great photos of Bells. Happened to be that way a few weeks ago and it was crappy. Would have loved to have seen it as in your blog.

Surf The Blogs. The latest updated surfing blogs. Connecting with a world wide community of fellow grass-roots surfers.
How it works. If your blog site has an rss or atom feed then as you add a new posting, it will appear top of the list on surftheblogs.
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Contributions and additions to this list are welcome.

If you like the idea, how about a reciprocal link from your blog to surf the blogs?
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kind regards

Tony Foster

73 Campbell Rd
Totara North

RD2 Kaeo

New Zealand

ras said...

Hey Mick,

Great shots. I especially like the one of the guys walking the beach with their guns. Man I've never surfed waves that big. Would be scared shitless. Glad you got some!

NiegĂ  said...

Beautiful!!! Lucky bast@rds...



trimchris said...

holy sh*+#!
i would love to watch bells like that one time. actually surfing? in my mind yeah, haha

thanks for those pics, and that new camera must be a pretty good one!

have fun with it and document the journey we call life.

Gazelle said...

Beautiful, Mick. And sometimes it's good to see the "pretty stars" to remind you of the ocean's power.

The shots make me nostalgic for surfing big Southern California breaks. When the surf is that big in Oregon it's a different animal entirely - I'd crap my wetsuit if I was out there in that size!

seamouse said...

Mick, you sure are a crazy ol' sod! Pretty sure there aren't many of your readers that would hit bells at that size!

(posh shots too!)

Alan_M said...

Mmmmmmm... dreamy. Nice shots!

clayfin said...

animal! good on ya

tres_arboles said...

Add me to the "wow" chorus. Bet there were quite a few "Oh shits" proferred that day!

David, Seattle

DC said...

Uhhhh, nice shots.
Those look like some pretty sick waves. Must have been a great glide ;)