Safetosea

A bit of action yesterday with a big swell that had been predicted arriving.

A solid 8-10 feet with bigger sets, and one of the biggest crowds I'd seen out at Bells at that size. Lot's of big boards and everyone having a good dig, it was fun and games for all.

Very consistent, with a screaming offshore, and even a tow team getting a few bombs up on the Centreside through Rincon section. If you look carefully in one of the shots below you'll see them out the back waiting for a big one. Long walls with not much room for anything but massive speed runs but they looked like they were having fun.

As for me, I got about 6 waves in three hours, one big bomb which drew some hoots, another couple of good ones, and one monumental stuff up towards the end, where, tired and cold, and attempting a late take off on a larger one, my legs didn't want to do what they were supposed to do (ie stand up!), and, paralyzed from the waist down I went over the falls buried in the lip, a long weightless wait with me thinking "oooh this feel nice" followed by KABOOM, drag, drag, drag, gurgle, gurgle, wait some more and come up with pretty stars in front of me.

I had to laugh. Old Coot.

Paddled back out and called it a day with one last one that took me in.

Can't get down today but it's doing it again.

PS: Secret Big Wave Spot Down South was reportedly over 20 feet with three tow teams out.

PPS: Guess who's got a new camera?