More fun and games about to descend on us I suspect as another swell approaches from the Roaring Forties.
The day after the pictures of Bells in the previous post it was smaller but perfect (so I'm told) and on Sunday I surfed some cold dribble. Just after I left the water, after a couple of hours flopping about and shivering, I walked back and snapped this.
It came on for a moment in the tide, and for a little while there some lucky soul may have caught his or her own little bit of perfection, albeit small and freezing.
All things are relative, of course, and perhaps the guys that surfed this thing the day before may have called it freezing too, but I dont' think the S word crept into the vocabulary, unless of course it was the S word that sounded a bit like SHIIIITTT!!! although I would probably be using a bit saltier language if confronted by a liquid cliff.
Tomorrow I'm down to have a surf (er... meeting...) with Mr Tognetti and the redoubtable Derek Hynd. I'll be very interested to see what Derek's up to on his finless explorations, and I hope they don't laugh too much at me as I flail by. The pic is courtesy of Coastalwatch.
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3 comments:
That monster! Surprised the guy can stand to surf with balls that big.
Hope the surfer meeting goes good.
Killer moment ... O_o
That guy's life is flashing before his eyes.
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