Wednesday, July 02, 2008

Today a rough old swell greeted me after the red eye run for an early.

Winki and Bells were stormy and lumpy but some workable walls were to be had at the Pop, though not particularly inviting. So uninviting in fact that I opted for a cup of tea with Richard and Satu while waiting for a certain Mr Hynd to turn up.

Derek had been off making some board modifications to Richard's new finless shooter (pictured, a Bushrat special), and on his arrival announced..." Fisho's is 2-3 foot and firing!!" Fisho's is a novelty Noosa like wave in Torquay that only works on a big swell, and today everyone was there, and me, all gunned up and know where to go, opted to try finless for the first time.

Since I'm probably the World Armchair Expert on finless technique (well, I've watched Derek enough while editing the film) I had to put up sometime and today was it.

I got three waves with a bit of a run going, but it truly is a game of the less the better, and it is fun, a lot of fun in fact. As performance is removed from the equation, at least in the beginning, any success is a great success.
A bit like learning again really, which was the point of the exercise in the first place.

You have to go with the board, relax into it and let it find its' line.

I can't say I managed that for more that 20 metres, if you're lucky, but the feeling arrived here and there and I did enjoy it, al lot, and I'd love to do more. Time will tell.

As for Derek, he wowed the crowd as ever, Richard had a bugger of a surf because of the crowd, and Satu, ditto, although she's so bloody beautiful she usually wows the crowd, just by being there.

Still, it was good to catch up.

The shots.

A couple of guys at Winki, the Bell's shore break in black and wild, er.. I mean white, and Derek and his old friend Jock, who's a bit sick at the moment. Poor old Jock had been with Derek for a lot of years and it's sad to see him like that, and Derek looks after him the way you'd imagine.

The first time I met Derek we had to drive somewhere in his car, and as I went to get in the front seat, Derek said, "wait... in the back for guests. The front seat is for Jock". You get the drift. He loves wee Jock.

In the bottom left of the shot is Derek and Jock's new little friend.

She had to live for a while in the cellar of the place Derek was staying, because the guy who owned the place didn't like dogs.

So Derek has named her Anne Frank, or Franky for short. Why aren't I surprised?





1 comment:

clayfin said...

more shots of that board please! It looks a lot like a rigid body board I saw the other day that was created from a broken longboard. I have an old board I'm thinking of "re-shaping".