Got lucky yesterday.
Did a run down to the island with Richie and scored a lovely 3-4ft left with just us two out, to be joined later by a couple of other guys. The first was a laid back character that was happy to have a chat and share the very frequent waves.
We were all kicking back and thanking the wave gods.
Then the next guy joins the 'crowd'.
He gets his first wave, hooting loudly and very, very 'up'.
'We've got a live one here' I think to myself.
Next wave he's hooting the same and as I'm paddling back after one I say to the more laid back guy that he may have been ADHD as a child. I say the same to the man himself out the back and he just laughs and says 'I think I still am".
He paddles right up to me, sticks his hand out and says 'Brett'.
"Mick" I return as we shake hands.
"G'day Micky" he roars. "Bloody great waves, ay?"
Damn right they were and we all had a fantastic, happy session, with more than enough waves to go around.
Turns out Brett was a stockman from central Victoria, and a good surf was a rare thing in life at the moment, plus I think the waves were a blessing during tough times as he was having a few relationship problems.
Lovely man, great session.
Richie and I staggered out of the waver after four and a half hours of bliss.
The pics don't do the waves justice, but they give a sense of the day.
And Rich, throwing his tired old arms up, with half the rest of the crowd behind him.