Tuesday, November 11, 2008

It's Tuesday, the weekend was an average one in many ways, Sue on the warpath, the waves small to middling, though improving a little on Sunday, but inconsistent and very crowded down Bells way.

I did the dutiful thing though and managed a constitutional, having my arm twisted by Richie to actually bother putting my wet suit on and actually paddling out.

It was that inspiring.

Still, he mounted a good argument (imagine driving all that way and not... hard to argue with) so out I went, and it was long wait followed by long wait.


My first wave was one of those flat take offs that make you feel reeeally slow and clumsy getting to your feet. None of that lift and spring that comes with a good one, I was all feet tripping over themselves, but it felt even worse, kinda like left foot on earlobe, right leg tangled up in nose hair, the usual things that befall the aged.


I did eventually get going and got to the other end not entirely disgraced, and even managed the odd really fun one after removing myself to the lowers section and avoiding the crowd.


That evening Tom gets in from a long days skating.. filming for the film he's in and if anyone tells me me the practitioners of the concrete arts are soft, take a look at any serious skater. This kid's body is like this every other weekend, he goes so hard at it, and then goes get some more.


Of course, that night in the shower it's ooch, ouch, yeoww , followed by aaaahhh as he gets past the stingy bit.


Pain can be a wonderful thing... when it stops.


Oh yeah, and the other diversion was Saturday night, as Joey had to go to a costume party... so he chose Superman. Now Joey has been a Superman and Batman freak since he was very little, and very nearly got the gig of young (13 year old) Superman in the recent Brandon Routh flick.


As it turned out he didn't get it but now at 16 he's nearly as big as Brandon. Maybe next time.

Tomorrow... I'm in for the gall bladder outy operation... yikes, so no waves for 3 weeks or so. This afternoon though I'm nipping down to Bells for a quick splash, as work is quiet, I hope I've sorted everything and.... Derek has just made me a finless, he's down to catch a swell and I'm picking it up.

Photo's next time.

Of course, not of me surfing the bloody thing.. now that would be funny.

































4 comments:

warren p said...

hope the op goes well

pushingtide said...

A new Hynd finless and no water time. Ahhhhhh.

NiegĂ  said...

u might as well send the finless hynd over my way as you won't be able to use it for a while...

;-)

NiegĂ 

clayfin said...

you are going to feel sooooooo much better