Hard. Very.
First four waves...or was it 5, flat on my face. Derek says first you've got to get low, then lower, then.... lower. Oh-Kay.
Then I made four on the trot, all the way through at four foot Bells. Light onshore but it was fun shape and not too crowded.
I can't say I spun, but I did the sideways almost backwards thing and still managed to get through.
Then I was munched on another three or so in a row and called it a day..
Op now. Bye.
7 comments:
The board looks amazing. Any more photos? Is it asymetrical (tail)?
Niegà
Jesus!
Wishing you a speedy recovery!
Jeeeeeeeeeez that board looks insane fun. All the best with the op fella. Hope you're back on your feet (and board) soon.
...Mick, very interesting
but in my oipinion, finless dont work for modern surf in the way that a finnned one (radical way)
except for heaps of 360 s
anyway, Im interested in further reports
-I ll find time and try to read your previous post
may be the text is too small for me
cheers
Digging the asymmetrical, purpose-built nature of that board.
That thing looks unreal. Way to step out of the box.
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