Oops another gap in posting but I've just been flat out since I got back from New York.
Finally, yesterday I got a much awaited clear space to the coast. As usual it was a west coast run and noticed Bells though quite good had a fair crowd, the wind was a bit from the north and Rich and I decided to 'have a little explore".
Just ten minutes away is a spot that I've driven past for all my surfing life, but on this particular day, on this particular swell, we both thought "lets have a look at...."
So out and about, down a side road, along a little track through some recently burnt out bushland and BINGO, at the bottom of a not to be sneezed at cliff were the most delightful peaks, not big, but fast, hollow and, joy of joys, uncrowded.
Naturally we proceeded to fall into our wetsuits and try hard not to fall down the cliff as we made our way to the delights below.
A strong offshore was tempered for most of the time to near glassiness by said cliffs, and three hours later we both staggered out of the water having caught more waves in a session than I can remember for many a long day.
It's amazing too how much more relaxed I felt in familiar territory.
For some godforsaken reason I'm always slower, more tentative and feel just plain weird at new spots, (ie NY) and really don't do myself justice, but just me and Rich and a couple of others and suddenly I felt freer than I had for ages.
It's all in the mind I know.
And on the way back, I paused to sniff the flowers that surrounded us, a reminder that summer is about to spring upon us, although you wouldn't know today. Cold, wet and windy.