Over the years I've loved a 'bit of size', but have always fallen into the self description of perhaps stalwart survivor, or maybe 'also ran'. Saying that, I have had some pretty good waves and will tell lies about them in my dotage, may it be a long time coming.
Today, while seeing what goodies the morrow might bring, I stumbled across this thing from a surf photog called Otto on the Coastalwatch.com.au site. This guy almost deserves a bravery medal for taking the shot.
As for the surfer, the guy has a lot of sack, and perhaps a death wish.
Ah, those were the days.
Going on the last remark it seems my old age has crept up more quickly than I thought.
I'm telling lies already.
PS: 14 Nov: Last night I saw some footage of this ... the guy in the pic made the wave! Unbelievable. It was Shipstern Bluff in Tasmania, just last week)