Safetosea

There's been a bit of swell around lately.

Saturday was my window on several fronts. Best day for swell, only day I could go, and I felt a cold coming on so thought I'd get in while I could still breathe.

Got down to a solid 6-ft with quite a bit bigger bombs.

Fortunately I'd thrown my 7'6" in and took it for a run.

Sadly, age and lack of surfs took it's toll this day.

Bells at size is a hard wave to catch. Fat, then popping, it is pretty unforgiving and it definitely didn't forgive me. After a couple of blown take offs, and a couple of too deep ones, I managed to get a belter from deep inside and it was pretty damn good, at least from my perspective. My reaction was 'this wasn't going to be half bad after all.'

Another shorter one a lttle later wasn't too bad either, my confidence rose accordingly and then began a series of absolute shellackings as I took a few late ones which included airdrops, lips in back of head, slides down the face and to top it off a fight with my board somewhere in the washing machine that removed one of my fins, and a TC FCS carbon fibre Redliner at that.. Not happy.

Went in, grabbed my 7 footer, got a couple more but really feeling knackered, then called it a day.

The pic isn't even a set.

Oh, and Geelong, my long suffering team won the Grand Final in the AFL (Australian Rules Footy) after a 44 year drought. I spoke to Maurice Cole on Saturday just after the surf and he had big screens set up at home, kegs, and I'm sure Torquay was a very happy town that night. GO CATS!!