In the article mentioned below I'm referred to as a surf nut. It was the only thing I took slight issue with in an otherwise great write up.
Why take issue? I suppose I find it a bit demeaning, preferring, perhaps, longtime surfer, old, even fading. But nut?
Still, today was a bit nutty. Winki busy as hell, but Bells, why... for awhile it was 4-5ft and just 2 guys out the back. I got some belters and not too many beltings, and had a lot of fun. Unfortunately my mate Rich did something to his back and came in early, and so snapped a couple of me with my crappy snapper.
"Micky, I can't get this thing to take it when I want it to take it."
Shutter lag is depressing....which of course means he missed the airs, hell cutties, and the deep, weaving barrel.
But then, so did I.
The other shot is Winki looking very Morning of the Earth, just before I paddled out.