THE HEALING POWER OF FUN
The last couple of days have been a bit of a quiet revelation. Yesterday and today, Derek Hynd, Sage Josky have been down here to do some filming on finless boards of various persuasions, with the help of Jack McCoy and his assistant Lachie.
The waves were pretty mindless, and the surfing very different.
What this difference did was transform the lineup at Bells from reserved to chatty. Guys who might otherwise stay quiet were commenting on the guys with the strange boards..
""You should have seen this board this guy had on the beach... no fins, weird edges, no fins, it'll never work..."
...only to see said board with skinny square jawed pilot go streaking by, grinning, sideways, moments later. This continued all morning yesterday, the scene repeated today.
The boys amazed the crew, got a heap of waves, everyone enjoyed the show, a lot of questions were asked.
Someone asked Derek what the point was.
"Fun" he said, and fun he had.
All through the session though Sage ripped on his wooden boards... double overhead on a couple, streaking on a 1000 year old design.
Sitting out the back I asked how he was enjoying things...
"Pretty good Mick, but I'd love a couple on my six one."
At the end of my session as I staggered knackered from the water I saw him run down the stairs with his thruster.
A few minutes later, from the carpark I saw him absolutely destroy two 8ft waves in a way that would make Occy proud... I'm serious here... I've never seen anyone do what he did on those couple of waves.
When he came in I asked " Little bit of pent up frustration there Sage?"
He just grinned.