Well it's been quite a while since the last post, for a variety of reasons, but one great big one in particular.


We moved house.


A long time coming, and driven mostly by circumstances financial and unwanted, but the up side is it has forced our hands and moved us to the coast. It is a big punt, income sources become just that little more classed in the maybe department, but I... we, have to say it is much quieter at night. 


I expect when there is a swell that might not be the case, as, as the crow flies we are about 200 metres if you're lucky from the mighty Southern Ocean, and exactly four minutes by car from the Bell's car park.


Yes, I timed it. And I can run there in fifteen...(ish)


Fortuitously we have moved in in a two weeks of onshores run, which has been good as there have been no distractions from the traumas of home making. Needless to say I will have my ear out for the boom of the next swell and look forward to getting more surf fit that I've been for many a long year, and working hard to make my sun damaged skin even more so.


Outside of this I've been developing a project that hopefully will give birth to more in a similar vein. I had the pleasure, a few weeks back, of interviewing a great man named Sir Gustav Nossal, and later bending an hour and a half conversation on a life devoted to fundamental discoveries in immunology, into four and a half minutes.


My aim was to get to the heart of a man who manages to blend humility with a vast and potent intellect. The piece has now gone up on The Conversation, a new forum for, as they describe it, scientific rigour with journalistic flair.  It is well worth exploring. 


As for my chances for getting more of these off the ground, I could do with a few positive responses. First cab's off the rank have been great, but the more, and the more international, the merrier.


I rarely ask for help, but please hop on line and say how much you like it. 


But only if you do.


Pics: Sir Gus, and my new home break... (not that you haven't seen it before)..



In Conversation with Gus Nossal from conversationEDU on Vimeo.

Today, after missing out on a few very good days at the beach as we begin house hunting on the coast, and as I'd worked the entire weekend sitting editing another 'project' I snuck down for a quick surf in anticipation of the swell leaping skywards and me getting a bit of "wheeeee!!!" time.

Everyone else had the same idea.

And a contest was on at Bells.

So, after sitting watching far, far better surfers than me doing their thirty years younger thing I slipped out to join the 60 odd other guys in the line up at fun but inconsistent Winki. I did say to myself if I come away with one good wave I'll have done alright so equanimity was the face I wore and it was a surprisingly fun session.

A few friends littered the pack. Having a chat and a lot of patience meant, despite the crowd, no one was really stressed.

Have a chat. Catch a wave. Talk some more.

The way it should be.

The pic. One of the occasional sets, keeping the boys and girls honest.

The year is done and gone, I can't remember one I've been more glad to be rid of, as it was full of heartache and pain.

The world has pitched and yawed, and so has mine, with Dear Old Dad leaving us, and my darling kids going through more than the share normally expected of the transition years. Thankfully the problems are not to do with health or accident, just an exaggerated version of the trials that come with sticking your nose up against the world, or your Mum and Dad, and saying, "Go on, have a go!'.

Sigh.

To all of you out there I hope this coming year is kind or kinder. Happy New Year.

My surfing entry to it wasn't half bad, with a solid onshore session at largish Bells last week, and some pretty tasty lefts on the weekend.

Punctuating this was a call from Tyler Breuer from Smashsurf, wanting to do an interview with me on my life after Musica Surfica. Here it is. You might like to know what's up next.

My pics for the day are the two surfs above. The onshore Bell's was before it kicked to double the size and became really great fun as there were only four or five out.

The sound of the gnashing of teeth and the rending of garments is loud and being heard from every corner of Victoria at the moment, and no it is not because Kim Jong Il has bitten the proverbial bullet.

It's been near flat for weeks, and though I might paint a rosy picture with the pics today and those from last week, the truth is it is ugly. I can only hope that after Christmas some drought breaking swells arrive with happy winds to put some smiles back on a few faces.

Until I have something more to report or get a burst of inspiration I'll leave you with a couple of pics from Sunday. At the bottom end of what I can actually get to my feet in, the waves were pretty well shaped and fun until the swell Disappeared Completely. I wonder if Radiohead were playing over the top of the dunes?

PS: The first pic is a plant.

The Devil Winds ended for a morning and half an afternoon on Saturday, hot with a light breeze that slowly accelerated from the north, but not before gifting a couple of very fun sessions, lefts and rights, fun and games over two banks, with lunch in between, before a whopping storm hit and blew it all to bits.

That new board from Maurice is the duck's nuts, and it is clear any limitations are the plonker with his feet planted on the deck.

Easy into waves, fast, loose, but when you push it holds and it really does like to be put on its rail. I even managed to pigdog one of the larger lefts on takeoff and had a 'view' for a moment before getting swallowed.

That being said my good mate Richie maintains I still plant my top turn a little low and more 2:30 than 12 o'clock though he did concede I did whip one off worth a nod of approval. All I can say is good thing he isn't an ASP judge because had he judged me under that criteria I'd probably be summarily executed.

My other surfing highpoint of the weekend though was sneaking a few sessions viewing the Pipe Masters online and shedding a small tear for Kieran Perrow. It was so good to see someone being recognised for doing what he does best and loves most. Courageous surfing in heavy waves. Not frilly or flash. Strong, solid and when he did win all were happy.

Pics for tody: The left after the wind started to get into it, and the second front pushing through on the way home.
 

Almost two weeks without going near this door crack to another dimension, mostly because I haven't had much time, or perhaps because the old brain has had the fuzzies, what with 'life and all".

High point for a moment the week before last was trying a new board. If you don't surf you won't understand but getting new, lively glass and foam under the feet, feeling it out and seeing where it takes you, pushing lightly then pushing harder, asking I wonder if and getting an answer that shouts yes, well... it might be fleeting but I'll take that kind of ephemeral any day of the week.

And who cares if my bum sticks out sometimes.

Since then the weather has shifted into one of those devil systems.

An Oceanic Bad Hair Week.. or two.

Elsewhere thinking and planning for The Reef project, ... and again trying to make a buck, which is full of promise but no golden eagles crapping near me today. Fingers crossed for the next few days but until then a little snip from partner in crime Jonny Frank and the Glide. From this you can see why I'm looking forward to the next gig. 

The boards by the way are a six two and six ten, for the bigger days. Six two gets a big tick, the other will have to wait for a swell.

Pretty aren't they? 

At an impasse today, so a quick blog post is in order. A week and a half since the last entry, three surfs, two good, one crap, a son run over by a car, another ten days at Chez Madhouse.

Don't worry, if you are, the boy is ok, a rear ending lady not looking saved from a lifetime of guilt by good reflexes on Tom's part and a bit of luck. Young Tom has a lump on his shin and a wrecked bike, now replaced.

Work very quiet on the money earning front is being supplanted by the planning for the Reef, so at least I am occupied.

Pics: MC with a new big gun for Mark Matthews for Voldemort and other breaks in perilous Mordor, some very wind affected scrub, a lovely beachie, plus a quick snap of the fun Winki of Sunday.

Ho hum.