Monday, May 23, 2011

A pretty magic kind of afternoon yesterday. I managed a window of a few hours, the swell finally picking up a little and so a later run down to offshores and the yen to give the amended finless another run.

This time around with very nice 3 foot waves and an atmospheric afternoon the board and more importantly my body kind of behaved. Slotting and trimming now with much more ease the magic carpet came alive. Most interesting though was when I handed it over to my mate Harley.

Harley comes from an aviation family, and has been able to fly since he could walk, given the unique circumstance of growing up on a large tract of land with an enthusiastic and slightly eccentric dad who stuck a control stick in his hands at three or four.

After his second wave he paddled back all wide eyed.

Driving back he was somewhere between speechless and you couldn't shut him up.

"The closest thing I've ever come to flying."

Neato quote for a first time on finless.

I think my amendments get a tick.

Pics. Wave offerings both tubular and cloudular, my finless, Harley and Ed Sloane looking like Kirk Cobain, plus the RATHER EPIC sunset on the drive home as shot out the car by someone or other.


fstopr said...

Lucky bastards!! ;-)

peterbowes said...

I showed that pic of the board beside the car wheel to an old boy from the 60's and he reckons that the car ran over the board - FULL STOP - I cannot convince him otherwise

Mick said...

Show him Musica Pete.