I'm not in a philosophising mood so I'll keep it brief.
Yesterday I had was one of those once every couple of months visits from my Musical Pals from Sydney.
It is always a great chance for a catch up, we have a project to work on, and the surfing is generally alternative. Luck being on our side this day, a six am run to the the coast drew a fortunate dice with a nice four foot plus swell licking the shore, sunlit and chilly, but very tempting.
Winki got the nod because of the tide and available time.. Richie rode finless because I'd made some fixes to the finless Derek Hynd made me after seeing Derek's own board and where he'd taken the bottom contour. My board had always been slippy, so when I saw the perpetual adjustments DH had been making I felt I had permission.
Some additions to the outer rail and an inner ridge looked interesting and conceptually sound on completion.
The ride report was 'if I had four thumbs they'd all be up'. I was stoked and I'm going to have a return to the board after a long layoff now, though my late surf waves were a bit disastrous as it'd been too long. One wave made me realise, just before the face plant, that things were much better, even though I was much worse.
Till next time.
My highlight was a very long beauty from uppers to the valley on the hull, in the morning sun.
Pic: Winki in the morning light, and my rough and ready sun cure plus kneadable epoxy gerry rig concept proving fiddling.