Tales of good waves filtering in as a decent little swell lit up lots of spots with tubes, hot weather (37C), warm water and an all day offshore.
Saturday I surfed kinda sloppy but fun Bells around 4-6ft, can't say I killed it but then I rarely can. On the other hand at the end of my session MC paddled out and I managed to catch the beginning of a pretty hell snap as I sauntered around betowelled and becamera'd in the carpark. (Not a pretty sight).
Yesterday at good old 13th, barrel fest is probably the best description. If you were young and quick, you got a lot, if you are nearly 56, you got a couple and buggered one up. (I suck at pigdogging)
Aaaah but you only need one.
A long session, some hell drops, a few beltings and one very good view from the inside as the oncoming section prepared to swallow me whole.
Twenty four hours later there's still water dribbling from my nose.
Pics:
13th, wailing, and MC on Saturday, test driving a little Metro.
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