I promised not so many surf reporty posts from now on, and it's a pretty easy call as we are now on week three of the rubbish month from hell... though I have had reports of some scores in remote locations by those in the know.
Sunday, screaming onshore and wave desperate, I drove down anyway with only things finless, and took the bigger alaia out at a tormented point break, in the hope of catching some little ones, or working out how to. What a joke. Either I'm pathetic (likely) or the alaia is the world's most frustrating wave catching vehicle. eventually I drifted down the point, and ended up jumping into waves. White water sliding. I actually stood up for the odd moment..
The journey continues.
Yesterday my mate Jed Done from Bushrat and one of the stars of Musica Surfica sent me a shot of a recent board, a Hynd fish decorated with a masterwork by South Coast artist Stan Squire.
It's a cool read, and a beautifully made board. As is every one of Jed's. He is a master.