Monday, June 29, 2009

The blog is feeling a bit like a surf report at the moment.. and how boring given it's the log-ins of someone so past it I sometimes forget what the wax is for.

So I'm resolving to try and up the ante, post a bit more often, try to resurrect some stories and do a bit more of what I think I used to do when I began way back when. I might have to go and re read a bit to remind myself.

Anyway a solo run yesterday as Richie was doing Dad Stuff with his young Louie. I scouted prisons for Tom while I drove down and scored a freezing peak with a couple of dozen grommits and their Dads on their own Dad Stuff Day for a boardriders club from another coast. A bit of a zoo, and something of a slalom course, but the hooting and encouragement for the little ones was enough to assuage any frustration on my part. I did one good turn. That kept me happy. You become easily pleased as you get older.

It was so cold, about four degrees C with a decent offshore so the wind chill must have pushed it close to zero. Thank God the water itself is still around 14C which is clearly not enough to keep the sharks at bay. A small, (four or five feet) something or other nudged a bloke on the next peak which encouraged him from the water. That this is the land of the Large Great White had me a bit skittish for a while, and feeling a bit guilty that I wasn't making a fuss about it but the sense of fun with the kids may have generated its own Shark Repellent Happiness Field.

One can only hope.

I must smile more.

Pics today... the little peak, crowd dwindling but the peanut gallery of seagulls were thrilled to be there. ...aaaand a couple more T's.. back end of the run now. I must get the sketch pad working harder. The first is a collection of bits of graffiti I've shot, and a line scrawled on a wall that got me..er.. thinking, plus the logo for a fictitious Old Farts Surf Club. I'm the President.





5 comments:

Eef said...

How old do i need to be to join the old farts surf club? It sounds great to me!

As for smiling more, i read this great line somewhere that got turned into a drawing. Repeat as long as nessecary when you get grumpy :D

check it out:

http://monsterboardsorg.blogspot.com/2009/06/yeah.html

greetings from the lang of tiny waves,

Eef
monsterboards.org

6ftnperfect said...

I'll trade you one of my Grumpy Old Surfer Ts for an OFSC.

Matt said...

Waves look a lot better than what we are getting in north San Diego right now.

David said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
lawless said...

I haven't surfed in over a month. When it's flat in Florida, it's literally, flat.

Digging the design exercises though.

Need to hit up my sketchbook more often than I do. Oddly enough, it's mostly sketches of furniture designs.