The unbelievable happened yesterday and I managed a mid week surf, under the guise of a meeting in Torquay about what might become the next film, judiciously timed to coincide with an upcoming swell.
Glassy and rising, a quick couple of hours saw some fun waves ridden in the slightly sloppy but ever so fun conditions.
I felt a little under gunned on a 6'1", but I blame my age and frequency of water time. Maurice C again out shining, on a same size board, but I ain't him. On seeing me get belted on an under the lip take off he said "you need more length".... "at least that's what your missus tells me"
Today it's light offshore and utterly perfect, but I really did enjoy it yesterday, adequacy insults not withstanding.