Tuesday, April 14, 2009

A mixed but fun bag of tricks over the Easter break.

Friday saw me working, with the hope that Saturday would allow a window in proceeding to nip down for a quickie, family permitting. Unfortunately it was clear that morning that the wind was lightly onshore and the promise of good waves a bit dodgy, I hummed and hah'd, got diverted by a Facebook entry (I'm only doing it for the movie.. honest) and was then set upon by three New Yorkers telling me to go go go, it's three degrees there and they just got out of the two foot waves happy.

Well I did get the guilts then so decided to take advantage of the time and do as I was told..

On the way I popped by to buy some wax at the local surfshop and spotted Fab's Fish on the wall.

Fab's Fish is a beautiful Wegener Balsa Fish, heavy as all get out, like about 20 lbs, but it's had me intrigued for ages and I asked if I could take it for a run.

So down it went, and I headed straight for a beach/reef combo spot I know of that works with a bit of swell and a higher tide.

Onshore, but light, and the smell of the dead whale up the road not reaching the break, a couple of hours exploring the fish in less than ideal but challenging waves made my day. After a shaky start I began to feel it out.. well as much as feeble old me can, and it was a blast, a ton of momentum had the glide going big time, but god help you if you muffed a duckdive. Once you start going backwards it's hard to stop.

Swings and roundabouts... but I want one.

Sunday, headed deep south with Tommy, but we had to leave Joey and Sue stuck in town with basketball training and work respectively.

So down to Rod's place, where we got a late surf at my most hated break, The Point, a shit fight of a wave that only locals of long standing can work out and even then they hate it, but endure it too as it would have to be the most consistent wave on earth. Never without swell but it has the maddening ability to supply a flat mushburger and heaving wall in successive waves, lots of power but usually delivered to surfers other than me. Over the years it has done me some great injustices, and very occasionally made me feel the king of the world.

Usually though I slink in feeling miserable.

As was the case on Sunday.

To make matters worse, I took Tommy out, it was a bit bigger than we thought, Dad it's gonna kill me as he got sucked over for the third time, but good for the little chap's heart. He dealt with it all and gave me a serve on the way in.

I had to take him to the skate park afterwards so he could regain some pride.

A lovely evening at Rod and Hazel's after, with the anticipation of a cracking good morning.

Up early and 'round to my favourite reef in all the world, it was a lovely 6ft - maybe 8ft on the biggest biggies, clean offshore and heaving with just me and Rod for three hours. Twelve guys there when we arrived but they all paddled in while we suited up. Couldn't believe it and a very happy pair of campers were we.

Then a whizz across the coast to Marky's place and a follow up surf this morning at his local, shifty peaks and very hard to find a good one but I got some exercise.

Now back at work.

Shots for the day, Friday's sandy dredgers, the fish, the point from my iPhone and this morning not far from Bells.

My camera battery died for the prime session so shot four of five is the break in question from an earlier, not so good day last year.


















































4 comments:

Eef said...

Hey Mick!

lovely stories! And if you ever get bummed about small waves, just watch this :D

http://monsterboardsorg.blogspot.com/2009/04/finless-surfari.html

greetings,

Eef
monsterboards.org

walrus said...

Hi Mick, if your chasing hulls Paul Hutchinson (02 66856896) or the boys at Sea Surfboards (02 66858531) are good people to talk too...my one should be over here in about three weeks, your more than welcome to use that..

NiegĂ  said...

Hey Mick, seems like you scored much better than I did. At leass your surfs sound more fun than the ones i had!

NiegĂ 

clayfin said...

shit Mick, all those setups look sick!