Another average week of surf down here and a short surf with my son Joey on Sunday.
Two and three quarter hours driving for an hour and a half in the water. God I'm keen.
For the first time in ages I rode the longboard, just to up my wave count... in the dribble... in the short time available, ....and took my little happy snapper out, stuffed down the front of my wettie to amuse myself out the back.
I even attempted to film a little mpeg of a ride by holding the camera in my teeth, catching the wave, grabbing the camera, pushing the start button, then pointing said camera in the general direction of the ride.
Laughable result,.. Brian Conley I'm not.
So I pointed it at Joey..
"Dad, what the hell are you doing... you're such an idiot"...
..then the near flat horizon.
We must amuse ourselves in our twilight years.