If you've ever read this blog before you'll be aware of my depilatory (as in I lose hair over him) younger son, Hell Boy, The Devil Incarnate, Skate Demon, my darling Tommy.
Over the past weeks we've been debating an offer we've had and this Saturday he flew off to LA to spend a couple of months skating with and being filmed with some of the best skaters in the world. They obviously have a high opinion of him, it will do him a world of good in so many ways, and be a grand introduction to the big wide world.
Staying in the San Diego area, if you see a tousle headed, low riding ratbag about ten feet in the air and possibly upside down... that is Tom.
Say hi if you do.
Free of worrying about what he is up to next I had a run at the water. Saturday I got to Bells, spotted my mate Maurice in the car park and this shiny red 5'11 he'd been riding. Hmmmm...
Can I have a go mate... I'll drop it by the house after...
No worries he says.
Then he fixes me with one of those blisteringly beady eyes he has.
Now don't ding it, don't stick it on top of the car and drive off without tying it on, stay away from any major storms, and bring it home safe.
Hoooweee.. she'll be apples, says I.
Out there and just getting the feel of it, a couple of small ones then this nice outside set on the Rincon bubble comes through.. I'm in the spot, take off and woops a young surfer without too much experience panics as old fatty takes off and ditches the board right in front of me, pushing it into my line as a dark and fearful little head disappears under water.
Naturally, I jump over the top, not wanting ANY damage to MC's board.
Under water the familiar tug doesn't eventuate at all, and I surface to the horror of a leggie string that has come undone while the board is having a fine ride of its own right into the rocks of High Tide Bells.
Sprint swimming and rock hopping like a demented frog I got to the now completely trashed speed machine with a sinking heart.
I couldn't have done better with an axe and a couple of ball peen hammers.
So back to the car to change boards as I had to delay the inevitable, and I still wanted to get a few. Taking the finless out this time, I did have some fun and did get one very memorable one into the shorebreak but, to be honest, my heart was not in it any more.
Skulking back to Maurice's, he was just waking up for his afternoon nap in front of the football.
How'd ya go? Good board aye?
Bloody great mate but.....
Don't tell me, just stick it in the back of the car...
No mate you better have a look, and besides it was your string that came undone, grovel, snivel, make excuses.
God bless him, I lived to get in the car and drive home.
Next day, corduroy to the horizon, five foot and very lovely, I had three hours in a strong offshore, some good, some bad, I do need a bigger than 6-2 when it gets bigger.
Pics: My young Tom wacking the camera and saying don't be a goose Dad as I try to take his picture at the airport, and the fun waves pre and post surf yesterday.
3 comments:
Tell him to ring me and/or Ted up, we can loan him boards if he's looking for a surf!
I'm going to pretend that I did NOT read that Tom was here and didn't see us.
Tonny, Tom is there for another seven odd weeks at lest. Still hasn't a phone but we had every intention of putting you in touch. He is in Encinitas up in the hills.
We are skyping with him today so we'll work out a way to get him to you.
Xx
M
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