Have you ever noticed how flat take offs are harder than steep one's?
The way the drop away of the board on a steeper wave assists a quick pop up, whereas those flat one's can have you ending up tripping over your front foot, leaving you feeling like a big goose.
I ask in the hope that someone else does it other than me as it happened four or five times in vaguely crossed up four foot Bells that with persistence turned into a pretty decent session, though it took a good two hours for me to get into gear. A few fun waves were had, with a very occasional set venturing in with a little more size, oddly with some punch too but it still felt like a small wave session.
All a bit of a conundrum really.
A cracker last skitter after 3 1/2 hours had me practically stepping on the sand over Winki way so I called it quits... well my arms did really, though I was pretty done with it in the end, looking forward to a snooze on the beanbag when I got home.
Love that snooze.
Shots: Winki looking busy, and a lucky turnip on a very nice looking wave for grey day at Bells, though I'm not sure what he's looking at.