Monday, July 07, 2008

Another Sunday lurches by and I managed a lone run to the coast, to Phillip Island, home of very small penguins and mighty big sharks.

When I first arrived there were two guys alone on a lovely little bank, so I had to go and spoil their fun. Naturally as soon as I did that a flock arrived, but a well behaved, pleasant one. We all had enough to play on.

An offshore wind and a clean small swell, with good banks up and down the beach meant I had a fun few hours as I swapped from peak to peak, chasing a rapidly rising and very high tide. I managed a few good ones and caught up with my mate Frenchie who had been down the Island with his family for the school holidays. He's clearly been on some kind of pills, as he looked really well. Or the Banyak islands have a strange magic.

The shots? The first peak with the two guys just before I paddled out, and the same bank three hours later on the high tide.

Just before I go, the images right at the bottom are from Michael Fordham's Book of Surfing. A mate of his sent it to me pushing for a plug. Based on the pics and Michael's other projects, it looks to be worth it. Clearly a lot of passion, the guy has gone deep into that deeper side of the dance, and those that know me know I love that.

Speaking of dancing, Derek Hynd has said he'll shape me a finless. I doubt whether I'll look like I'm dancing as I learn to ride it, but it's gonna be fun!




























































3 comments:

Foul Pete said...

Mick

I'm curious to hear more about the finless board you are getting. There was a beautiful photo of Hynd surfing one in a recent Surfer's Path. I'm sure, you saw his great article on the same subject in the Journal also...

Unknown said...

But Mick, Derek hasn't shaped me mine yet! ;-)

Anonymous said...

you're going to get a finless?