I had a few days away with my great mate Rod, staying at his house after a long absence in one of the more isolated parts of Vicco, an area tending to the more secret. Guarded by the locals, it's no names but those who know will recognise the location.
His kids all rip, right down to the 11 year old Benjamin, and my Tom had a hit as well, got a couple, got belted, marveled at Rod and Hazel's boy's ability in the water, and they did the same when he skated.
Got a few surfs in, several at a harbour mouth spot that is the ultimate demoralizer... I rarely have a happy surf out there, washing machine conditions, you get the odd good one then a severe thrashing, and yet the local kids blitz it.
Stand out session, however, was at a big reef that is just about my favourite spot in all the world.
It just agrees with me.
A big right peak, power in spades, steep takeoff and often a power packed wall to follow. I love it.
So, Saturday morning I make a run over to it, one car in the carpark... which I recognize.
Check it, snap these shots with the phone... now that the snapper is dead... and head out to a couple hours of 6-8foot (easily) fun and games.
To make it interesting I took out the 6'2", which proved very flighty and raised the only two eyebrows (apart from mine) in the water.
Russel was on a 7'9'' and admitted to being a bit over gunned as while the takeoff needed it, the wall didn't. I was looking for windows in, found a few, had one filthy late take off and thought well of myself. The later session at the other break remove any feelings of adequacy, but for a couple of brief moments I was, I have to admit, a bit smug.
Still, it was good to surf with Russ. His nickname is Hellman, and at 57 he thinks nought of paddling out solo on Mavericks sized waves to surf his passion, which I won't name. He built his house with views of it, I think his ashes will be scattered there, and there is no doubt, as I've experienced it from the water, that the waves he has seen rage through that line up are the equal (on their day) of any on the planet. Picture 20 foot Kirra on steroids. Then a bit.
We enjoy every surf we have together (he was a couple of years above me at school) and we always have a good yap.
So here's a couple of snaps, and more about the reception to Musica Surfica later.
3 comments:
Stunning colors, look forward to the recap of the MS reception.
...what a wave!
so, you need to hold a steep take off may be with a big bottom turn and then is a mellow clean perfect wall, isn t it?
can you describe a bit the 6 2 used to surf that wave?
thank you
Back on it aren't you? Sweet, and that Rod fella has a bloody pair! I always respect my elders....;-)
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