Yesterday the swell was pretty tiny. We hunted about, Winki minimal, but a little searching found us at Guvvo's, a fun beachie in sight of Wayne Lynch's resurrected tee-pee.
Anticipating these swell conditions, I'd dragged the mal along, and took it out for a dousing, it being some 6 months since it'd last been in the drink.
While walking to the water I noticed out of the corner of my beadie a guy approaching with a self shaped alaia, a la Tom Wegener. Billy was his name, and he'd been riding it for a couple of months, and loved the play. I snapped a shot, and then, coming towards me was an old mate, Morgan.
Morgan's an artful type. I mentored him a bit when he was in uni, and we've been friends ever since. A seriously hot surfer, I swear he'd rip on a soggy noodle, but yesterday he had a rather fun looking single he'd just picked up. He'd had it shaped by Torquay legend shaper Doug Rogers, but told Doug the stickers and colour job were his to do. The label is Harmonious Monk (in homage to Thelonius, of jazz fusion fame).
Why the name, Morgs?
It seems he's working on the idea that boards are such lovely forms in themselves, it is the job of the artist who adorns them to work in compliment to them, to make them sing. Great idea, but he'll be the first to admit it ain't easy.
I do love what he's done though, and here's Morgan's board and grin.
As for the waves, I had a lot of fun, even doing a Conley again and attempting to film one with the crappy snapper. I may show that later.