Tuesday, May 29, 2007

As I stood watching a few of the boys surfing one day on the island, I spotted Derek right behind me, sitting, thinking.

Pondering the curves of a cuttlefish and wondering, I think like we all have at one time or another, what would something like this surf like?

What really struck me though, was this rare moment of calm.

We all need moments like this.

A chance to ponder, or think of nothing much at all.

4 comments:

Doc said...

Derek Hynd, to me, embodies what it means to surf...and be a person that surfs...his writing is concise and unapolegetic...so is his surfing.

Anonymous said...

Yeah, Hynd seems like a radical guy. Passionate, committed, stylish and soulful. About life and about surfing. We should all strive for that as surfers and human beings...

Paula the Surf Mom said...

Those my favorite kind of moments to be sure

Beach Bum said...

You sure he wasn't just polishing his nails?