And I promised I'd post more often.
Sorry.
It must be something about the immediate access to a coastline, plus a fair amount of swell over the past couple of weeks, coupled with 'things to do' that has made a post on the old blog 'something I'll get to tomorrow".
Last weekend was a highlight with waves in the pretty big range, somewhere between 8 and 12 feet depending on what measuring system you subscribe to. Not perfect but for Winki a good direction. It was fun once you got out the back and managed to get one amidst the scrabbling crew and the crazy sweep that inhabits the place over about 6 feet.
Paddle paddle scramble paddle scramble duckdive maybe catch a wave. 5 waves in three hours. Two sort of keepers.
As I said. Fun.
Otherwise it's been a fairly constant swell that has seen me catching the imperfectly winded afternoons following perfect mornings I missed as I keep to 'list discipline' and remain productive with all the delights that pepper the area.
The other great distraction has been pre-production on The Reef. Now only six weeks away and 17 days of lunacy filming in the north west of Western Australia.
A major disappointment is the loss of Cyrus Sutton and maybe Ryan Burch through injury,. We are now short two hot American goofy footers so if anyone has suggestions for replacements I'm up for it. From the US. Goofyfooter. Happy to challenge a challenging wave without fins.
I know. A big ask. Only the Brave.
Pics for today. Some random shots from the past week or so.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
4 comments:
hey I'm goofy foot. maybe I could caddy for the rippers! I've also worked on a few film sets. but wait. my wife is due with baby #2 on Sunday. and I live up and over from you. ohh to dream.
ras
Regular foot here. And frankly, while everyone else has been getting better at surfing, I have been getting worse.
What about old Mikey DeTemple? Actually, I think he's regualar too...
Have u thought of Rob Machado?
Keep well. Stoked that you are having a great time in your new whereabouts. Blogging should only be done when waves have been surfed or ...it's flat (like today)!!
Cheers!
NiegĂ
hey mick - all well?
much warmer up here but the locals are all suspect
Post a Comment