After last week's visit to the hospital I've been feeling pretty bloody crook, but not crook enough for it to stop me having a splash on Sunday.. Bells again but a high tide windy, two swell weirdness that had only a couple of guys out and if you could look into the chaos of gale force winds, there were these lovely smaller sets running right through Rincon to the sand. Pure fun and I got quite a few.
The Big Sets were a hoax most of the time, but just after I left the water the wind started to drop and I suspect later on the afternoon it was pretty special.
New York in a week.
'Twill be interesting if my guts hold together.
Shots...the Big Set, the Rincon Run Through, The Shorebreak Peak and the Sand with Splashy Bit.