Monday, June 25, 2007


Well, going on the flood of comments on my story about a pig, I better get back to surf related stuff.

Yesterday, we had one of those perfect, clear, offshore winter's days. Cold, crisp and full of promise as my mate Richie and I headed down for a much needed splash. The forecast was three to four feet on the beaches, perfect wind direction and strength... it was going to be ON....

When we got to the island, it was all of the above, except could we find a bank that wasn't closing out, or a reef that wasn't just a tad too small?


Three hours of driving here, there and back again for zip. We finally just went out to get wet, on a tiny left that had the occasional outside peak, a peak being dominated by a guy on a longboard who took everything.

A bit frustrating, and nothing against longboards at all, I have one myself and love it, but shite... he was greedy.

To punctuate the matter, I rang my mate Marky over where we should have gone...

It's going off Micky, almost as good as the day a few weeks back, when that guy shot those pictures of you I sent..

Oh.. that good.

Thanks mate.

You see, last Wednesday night, Mark rings me and says..

Mick, what were you riding, that day at 13th?

My yellow 6'6".

Did your wettie have a bit of red on it?


Wearing your Gath helmet?

Yep. (Surfers ear, worry about the kids without a Dad)

You might like these then.

So he sends me a couple of shots.

I was a bit stoked, as gems like these come rarely at 53, and I'm gonna have to work on my tube stance.


Doc said...

Damn Mick!

Killing It!

Gazelle said...


Patch said...

Yeah, Mick! Whooo-hoooo!

Beach Bum said...

I'd kill to get into a tube these days let alone worry about the stance.Feckin ace! (PS thx for the link btw) Catch ya l8r.

Beach Bum

Anonymous said...

Ohhhhhh that wave. Cool toooob Sea!!


ras said...

Sick. Man you scored on that day and the photos to prove it.

nmm said...


warm jet said...

got it then, missed it today.
same as I.
Nice pic.
Toob stance just fine.

clayfin said...

I liked the pig story (although a bit dark), should have commented. Beautiful wave shots, and the tube stance is great, even a finger drag! jealous.

Jason said...


Sharkbait said...

Very cool! Who does the photo credit go to? The shots are just as amazing as the rides themselves!

Gaz said...

Not bad you old bastard!

seamouse said...

loving the style on the bottom turn mick. nice to see the simple things done in style.

You gotta be stoked with that!

Max Parker Bakos said...

Love the hand drag, professor.
There's no substitue for style mate.
Nice one.


beetlejuice said...

I like that rail turn...