Thursday, November 16, 2006


When I go for a surf, or at least, when I leave the water, and wander back to the car, I keep my eye out for sea drift. The stuff our lives commit to the sea, for the sea to cast back to us, days, weeks, years later.

My shed is filling with this stuff, waiting for an idea to present itself and for me to attempt a little bit of, in this case, whimsy.

The wood from the frame, I found at a place called Cape Schanck, and carried the 6 foot long beam, along with my board and wetty, up a 200ft plus cliff. Great couple of lefts at the Schanck, always worth the effort.

The heart shaped rock and kelp thing comes from the beach in front of a great righthander called Boneyards, not far from Apollo Bay, in south western Victoria. The name says it all, and close to being my favourite wave.

The blue sandal sole, from a place called Clifton, not far from the Twelve Apostles.
That's all I can tell you about Clifton.

The broom head comes from Rivernook, a secret spot way down south that is one of Wayne Lynch's favourite waves. Or at least it was. He reckon's he's over it as it's getting too crowded. Last time I surfed it there were 4 guys out and it was one of the best surfs I've ever had. Indo like screaming barrels at 4-6ft, sunny, offshore, bliss.

Behind it all is a car's oil pan, found in the carpark at Gunnamatta. Great beachbreaks, deadly beach if you're a tourist unfamiliar with the sea. About four years back a family turned up, 4 kids ran over the dune while Mum and Dad unpacked the car and 3 had drowned by the time the parents had walked the 50metres to the beach.

A sign went up not long after telling people the lifesavers were 100 metres down the beach.

And the abalone, they're from everywhere, and maybe one is from a beach near you.

The title, well, I had my wife in mind when I named it.


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