I won't say anymore. Just go to Illustration Art and see David's latest entry for:
Monday, March 19, 2007
Monday, March 12, 2007
Way back in '04 I had my 50th birthday trip to Northern Sumatra. We shot an embarrassing amount of footage... boy, was it embarrassing, and I've been slowly editing it all.
My poor old (42-50) mates have waited a long time, so here fellas, is a taste.
For those of you who have no clue what you're seeing, this is Bawa, a break in the Hinako Islands, off Nias, which is off the northern coast of Sumatra, not too far from Bandah Aceh. The break was made famous by Tom Curren a few years earlier when he rode it at 12 feet on a tiny little Tommy Peterson Fish style board. After riding the wave all I can say is Tom - respect.
Of the crew on the trip, there were three regular foots, Robbie, Hec and me.
Robbie, just recovering from melanoma, avoided the sun like the plague, always wore a wettie, and while making a comeback after a long time away from the water, surfed in a lovely, relaxed style.
Hec was our doctor, and resident free spirit. The only longboarder on the trip, you can read more about Hec and his amazing exploits in the November archive.
Me, you can tell me because I have a dreadful habit of raising my left arm as I cutback or come off the top.
Of the goofies, we had Neil, Robbie's brother. An expert in artificial intelligence (couldn't I do with a bit of that), he doesn't appear in this sequence. Neil had the habit of 'paddling up the reef' to solo it at any opportunity. Nickname: Charger. I now know why.
Bim (real name Harold) was our best surfer. Usually riding a mid length board, he also ripped on Hec's long board, then kept borrowing our little boards and tore it up on them, too. He went short when he got home.
Marky organised the trip. Mark you'll see sipping a Bintang at the end. A human dynamo, Mark organised the trip, and entertained us every day. A long time top sailor, he's been in two Whitbread Round the World races.
Why'd ya give up surfing for so long, Marky.
... So I could ride 80 foot waves in the Southern Ocean.
And Rich, the guy I surf with more than anyone. You'll hear Rich pay out on me for "claiming" on the last wave in the clip. Top bloke, big smile, not much hair.
Also in the clip is spidery Aki, from the crew of Southern Cross, now one of the guides on Sumatran Surfariis. Knows the Ments and North backwards and a lovely, gentle soul. Plus, two Uruguayan rippers, living feral on the island, hop in to a couple and embarrass us.
That's about it.
Boys, if you read this, we've got to do it again before too long. To everyone else , don't laugh too hard.
It was a blast...perhaps you can join us next time.
PS: The tsunami of 04 struck three months after this footage was taken. The break hasn't been the same since.
My poor old (42-50) mates have waited a long time, so here fellas, is a taste.
For those of you who have no clue what you're seeing, this is Bawa, a break in the Hinako Islands, off Nias, which is off the northern coast of Sumatra, not too far from Bandah Aceh. The break was made famous by Tom Curren a few years earlier when he rode it at 12 feet on a tiny little Tommy Peterson Fish style board. After riding the wave all I can say is Tom - respect.
Of the crew on the trip, there were three regular foots, Robbie, Hec and me.
Robbie, just recovering from melanoma, avoided the sun like the plague, always wore a wettie, and while making a comeback after a long time away from the water, surfed in a lovely, relaxed style.
Hec was our doctor, and resident free spirit. The only longboarder on the trip, you can read more about Hec and his amazing exploits in the November archive.
Me, you can tell me because I have a dreadful habit of raising my left arm as I cutback or come off the top.
Of the goofies, we had Neil, Robbie's brother. An expert in artificial intelligence (couldn't I do with a bit of that), he doesn't appear in this sequence. Neil had the habit of 'paddling up the reef' to solo it at any opportunity. Nickname: Charger. I now know why.
Bim (real name Harold) was our best surfer. Usually riding a mid length board, he also ripped on Hec's long board, then kept borrowing our little boards and tore it up on them, too. He went short when he got home.
Marky organised the trip. Mark you'll see sipping a Bintang at the end. A human dynamo, Mark organised the trip, and entertained us every day. A long time top sailor, he's been in two Whitbread Round the World races.
Why'd ya give up surfing for so long, Marky.
... So I could ride 80 foot waves in the Southern Ocean.
And Rich, the guy I surf with more than anyone. You'll hear Rich pay out on me for "claiming" on the last wave in the clip. Top bloke, big smile, not much hair.
Also in the clip is spidery Aki, from the crew of Southern Cross, now one of the guides on Sumatran Surfariis. Knows the Ments and North backwards and a lovely, gentle soul. Plus, two Uruguayan rippers, living feral on the island, hop in to a couple and embarrass us.
That's about it.
Boys, if you read this, we've got to do it again before too long. To everyone else , don't laugh too hard.
It was a blast...perhaps you can join us next time.
PS: The tsunami of 04 struck three months after this footage was taken. The break hasn't been the same since.
Friday, March 09, 2007
DOH MOMENTS
Every surfer, as a kid, dreams of getting a picture of themselves in a magazine. I was no different but like most of us...no chance.
Then, on my first trip through Europe in '79, my mate, Ren, and I where in a town called Figuera da Foz, on the Portuguese coast, enjoying a couple of plates of our version of spaghetti bolognese, when a white Kombi pulled into the camping ground. In it where Brian and Kathy, a couple of Californians doing the surfing thing through Europe,and shooting some stuff for Surfing magazine.
They wanted to know if we wanted to come south with them and surf this epic beach they'd found. It was, they said, huge and 'like Hawaii' and "we want someone to surf it so we can send it to the magazine"
The sentence was barely finished before we'd packed and fishtailed out of the campground. (I exaggerate)
When we arrived the next morning we found 8-10ft peaks breaking 50 yards offshore and reeling off in both directions, light offshore and pretty...well...epic.
Three days of this and it got bigger, we started to call it 18ft but in reality it might have got to a smidge over 12, I dunno, to us it was BIG. We'd only been surfing maybe 8 years at this point and looking back at the shots, we were rough.
Brian was a very good surfer himself, and mixed it with us, while Kathy shot from the beach. On one wave I remember taking off, backside, hitting a chop on the way down, and swinging an arm up in front of me to stay on.
"I hope she didn't take a shot of that" I thought.
Three months later this appeared in Surfing.
DOH!
Twelve years later I'm surfing at a break called Two Mile down south here in Vicco. Now this is a serious wave, and this was a SERIOUS session. It was a once in a lifetime, 12-15ft solid gold special, with a list of stars in the water a mile long. Tom Carrol, Martin Potter, Derek Ho, Brad Gerlach, Ross Clark Jones, Tony Ray, Cheyne Horan, plus the locals, and a few semi regulars like... me.
I'm making a fist of it, and getting the odd one, and the odd belting, including one wave where I got in cleanly, very relaxed, maybe too relaxed, maybe...oops dig a rail, stick my bum in the air then proceed to get absolutely hammered.
Script reads.."I hope no one took a shot of that."
A couple of months later...
DOH (2)
Now the thing about that session was I got one wave where it all went right. I paddle in clean on a BIG one, made it to the bottom and looked along a looong wall, and thought 'do I straighten off or pull in?'. I swung off the bottom, and as I drew up onto the wall the lip folded over to give me the biggest barrel I'd ever seen, much less been in. While in there I saw three guys paddle up the face, screaming, and I remember smiling back at them before I finally came out to another 100 metres of big, blue wall.
I pulled out right in front of Tom Carrol "Nice tube" was all he said.
I thought "nice?'
Thanks Tom.
Ten years later I'm sitting out at Winki when Craig (aka Pinhead) (now CEO Quiksilver in Torquay) says to me:
Micky, remember that big barrel you got at Two Mile that day?
Yeah Craigy.
That still plays in my head,even today.
Mine too mate.
A couple of years later, again out at Winki and again Craig says:
Micky, remember that big barrel you got at Two Mile that day?
Yeah Craigy?
Tom Carroll said 'that was the best wave that guys gonna get in his entire life...'
DOH(3)
So far he's been right.
Every surfer, as a kid, dreams of getting a picture of themselves in a magazine. I was no different but like most of us...no chance.
Then, on my first trip through Europe in '79, my mate, Ren, and I where in a town called Figuera da Foz, on the Portuguese coast, enjoying a couple of plates of our version of spaghetti bolognese, when a white Kombi pulled into the camping ground. In it where Brian and Kathy, a couple of Californians doing the surfing thing through Europe,and shooting some stuff for Surfing magazine.
They wanted to know if we wanted to come south with them and surf this epic beach they'd found. It was, they said, huge and 'like Hawaii' and "we want someone to surf it so we can send it to the magazine"
The sentence was barely finished before we'd packed and fishtailed out of the campground. (I exaggerate)
When we arrived the next morning we found 8-10ft peaks breaking 50 yards offshore and reeling off in both directions, light offshore and pretty...well...epic.
Three days of this and it got bigger, we started to call it 18ft but in reality it might have got to a smidge over 12, I dunno, to us it was BIG. We'd only been surfing maybe 8 years at this point and looking back at the shots, we were rough.
Brian was a very good surfer himself, and mixed it with us, while Kathy shot from the beach. On one wave I remember taking off, backside, hitting a chop on the way down, and swinging an arm up in front of me to stay on.
"I hope she didn't take a shot of that" I thought.
Three months later this appeared in Surfing.
DOH!
Twelve years later I'm surfing at a break called Two Mile down south here in Vicco. Now this is a serious wave, and this was a SERIOUS session. It was a once in a lifetime, 12-15ft solid gold special, with a list of stars in the water a mile long. Tom Carrol, Martin Potter, Derek Ho, Brad Gerlach, Ross Clark Jones, Tony Ray, Cheyne Horan, plus the locals, and a few semi regulars like... me.
I'm making a fist of it, and getting the odd one, and the odd belting, including one wave where I got in cleanly, very relaxed, maybe too relaxed, maybe...oops dig a rail, stick my bum in the air then proceed to get absolutely hammered.
Script reads.."I hope no one took a shot of that."
A couple of months later...
DOH (2)
Now the thing about that session was I got one wave where it all went right. I paddle in clean on a BIG one, made it to the bottom and looked along a looong wall, and thought 'do I straighten off or pull in?'. I swung off the bottom, and as I drew up onto the wall the lip folded over to give me the biggest barrel I'd ever seen, much less been in. While in there I saw three guys paddle up the face, screaming, and I remember smiling back at them before I finally came out to another 100 metres of big, blue wall.
I pulled out right in front of Tom Carrol "Nice tube" was all he said.
I thought "nice?'
Thanks Tom.
Ten years later I'm sitting out at Winki when Craig (aka Pinhead) (now CEO Quiksilver in Torquay) says to me:
Micky, remember that big barrel you got at Two Mile that day?
Yeah Craigy.
That still plays in my head,even today.
Mine too mate.
A couple of years later, again out at Winki and again Craig says:
Micky, remember that big barrel you got at Two Mile that day?
Yeah Craigy?
Tom Carroll said 'that was the best wave that guys gonna get in his entire life...'
DOH(3)
So far he's been right.
Saturday, March 03, 2007
FIFTY BLOODY THREE last Thursday!!
If I 'm not careful I'll enter my third or is it fourth mid - (ha ha) - life crisis.
Thankfully my family and friends have been very kind to me and it's been a lovely few days, notwithstanding the fact that I've got a poxy cold and the waves have been flat or crap for a couple of weeks now.
Little Tom turned twelve the day before me as well so it was birthday land all 'round, and to be honest it's much more fun celebrating twelve. I reminisced back to my twelfth, and then thought right back, and remembered this little shot of me at a bit past one year old, on a beach in Fiji, where I was born in 1954. See the little right hand barrel near my foot? I was born to be a regular foot.
The only problem is the surf gear. My bathers (that's what we called them then) were a crinkly blue nylon that I remember (and strangely, I do remember) as being pretty cool.
I don't think they'd pass muster today.
If I 'm not careful I'll enter my third or is it fourth mid - (ha ha) - life crisis.
Thankfully my family and friends have been very kind to me and it's been a lovely few days, notwithstanding the fact that I've got a poxy cold and the waves have been flat or crap for a couple of weeks now.
Little Tom turned twelve the day before me as well so it was birthday land all 'round, and to be honest it's much more fun celebrating twelve. I reminisced back to my twelfth, and then thought right back, and remembered this little shot of me at a bit past one year old, on a beach in Fiji, where I was born in 1954. See the little right hand barrel near my foot? I was born to be a regular foot.
The only problem is the surf gear. My bathers (that's what we called them then) were a crinkly blue nylon that I remember (and strangely, I do remember) as being pretty cool.
I don't think they'd pass muster today.
Saturday, February 24, 2007
The surf is crap this weekend.
Yesterday I visited my dear friend, Louise, in hospital.
Being an advertising guy you work with a lot of people in a lot of different offices, as the nature of the business means burn out if you stay too long, and also,if an account goes wrong, you're out of a job.
Most become 'friends' to some degree or another, but few have had a deep impact on my life outside the business.
Indeed, I think my career would be much more lucrative if I had played that game of lunches, award shows, all that crap.
I was always too aware of the call of the other, and I was and am still working in an industry I'd happily see the back of.
That being said, sometimes you meet classic, wonderful people.
Louie was my copywriter over 20 years ago, and again back in the mid nineties we teamed up again, then as part of a "Threem' (as in three people in a team), so it was me, Lou, and Heather Rose (what a wonderful name).
Two writers and an art director. Work was fun.
Then the account went west, and so did half the agency.
By then though, a great friendship was forged though with Louie, Bruce, Kara and Mimi. I'd sung her girls to sleep, and Sue and I have had many wonderfully funny evenings, laughing at Bruce's endless jokes and one liners, or sitting open mouthed at Louie's appalling language and wicked sense of humour.
Actually, we're all pretty good at being appalling.
Today the girls are both Bachelors of Music, Cara in violin, and Mimi, one of the best little jazz singers you'll ever see.
Louise is a published author, and running a writing school. Bruce has piffed art direction (yes, he was one too) to begin a new career in photography, his great passion.
Just when things were going swimmingly, Louie is diagnosed with multiple myeloma.
She nearly died during her stem cell transplant. Into remission with hopes high, she and Bruce took her students on a writing/photography tour of Italy. A great success.
Now she's relapsed.
Yesterday I popped in to see her, to be confronted but her curled up in a little ball. Bruce said - Mick's here to see you darling - and she turned, smiled and started to cry.
Take me out of here Micky, it hurts so much.
By then I was sitting on the bed with her and said - Louie, if they let me I'd grab you by the heels and drag you out the bloody door.
She laughed at this and rallied, sat up and revealed a chest like a pin cushion, with bruises, tubes and bandages detailing a couple of weeks of desperation as the doctors searched for a chemo alternative that would make a dent in this miserable disease's progress.
As she sat up her nightie started to fall from her knees so I said - Watch it Louie or I'm gonna get a view straight up your fanny.
She laughed - Don't worry Micky, they've got me in a fucking NAPPY!
The old Lou was back and Bruce wheeled her out into the garden. It's hot (again), and as we stepped into the sun I began to think we should try and get some sunscreen. I looked down to Lou as she threw her gown off and arched her neck to take in every blessed ray.
I laughed at myself. The last thing she has to worry about is skin cancer.
We got talking about a lot of stuff, including death.
I'm not afraid at all, says Louie, I just worry about leaving everyone behind.
She's not religious, Louie, nor am I.
No one knows what lies on that other side, and I reflected inwardly something I've said to Lou in earlier chats, and have often said to the kids.
They've asked me, more than once, as they've grown older - Dad what happens when we die?
I tell them what the different religions believe, about Heaven for the Christians, Jews and the people of Islam, about achieving Nirvana after a long cycle of reincarnations for Buddhists, and my favourite part of Buddhist belief.
That there is an ocean of universal life, and individual lives are like waves that rise up from it, travel for awhile, before falling back into that great universal sea.
In truth, we haven't a clue.
So I say to the kids, two things.
Did you know that every atom in your bodies formed inside stars billions of years ago?
No.
You're made of stardust.
Cool.
And remember before you were born?
No.
Was that so bad?
No.
Well that's the worst thing that can happen.
Their faces relax.
And when you die, one day you'll be stardust again.
Be the best you can, treat people the way you'd like to be treated, and whatever you choose to believe, don't force it on anybody else.
Just before I left Louise got some good news. Chemo is working. Better blood count. No more dialysis. You'll be home next week.
You could have bottled her smile.
Yesterday I visited my dear friend, Louise, in hospital.
Being an advertising guy you work with a lot of people in a lot of different offices, as the nature of the business means burn out if you stay too long, and also,if an account goes wrong, you're out of a job.
Most become 'friends' to some degree or another, but few have had a deep impact on my life outside the business.
Indeed, I think my career would be much more lucrative if I had played that game of lunches, award shows, all that crap.
I was always too aware of the call of the other, and I was and am still working in an industry I'd happily see the back of.
That being said, sometimes you meet classic, wonderful people.
Louie was my copywriter over 20 years ago, and again back in the mid nineties we teamed up again, then as part of a "Threem' (as in three people in a team), so it was me, Lou, and Heather Rose (what a wonderful name).
Two writers and an art director. Work was fun.
Then the account went west, and so did half the agency.
By then though, a great friendship was forged though with Louie, Bruce, Kara and Mimi. I'd sung her girls to sleep, and Sue and I have had many wonderfully funny evenings, laughing at Bruce's endless jokes and one liners, or sitting open mouthed at Louie's appalling language and wicked sense of humour.
Actually, we're all pretty good at being appalling.
Today the girls are both Bachelors of Music, Cara in violin, and Mimi, one of the best little jazz singers you'll ever see.
Louise is a published author, and running a writing school. Bruce has piffed art direction (yes, he was one too) to begin a new career in photography, his great passion.
Just when things were going swimmingly, Louie is diagnosed with multiple myeloma.
She nearly died during her stem cell transplant. Into remission with hopes high, she and Bruce took her students on a writing/photography tour of Italy. A great success.
Now she's relapsed.
Yesterday I popped in to see her, to be confronted but her curled up in a little ball. Bruce said - Mick's here to see you darling - and she turned, smiled and started to cry.
Take me out of here Micky, it hurts so much.
By then I was sitting on the bed with her and said - Louie, if they let me I'd grab you by the heels and drag you out the bloody door.
She laughed at this and rallied, sat up and revealed a chest like a pin cushion, with bruises, tubes and bandages detailing a couple of weeks of desperation as the doctors searched for a chemo alternative that would make a dent in this miserable disease's progress.
As she sat up her nightie started to fall from her knees so I said - Watch it Louie or I'm gonna get a view straight up your fanny.
She laughed - Don't worry Micky, they've got me in a fucking NAPPY!
The old Lou was back and Bruce wheeled her out into the garden. It's hot (again), and as we stepped into the sun I began to think we should try and get some sunscreen. I looked down to Lou as she threw her gown off and arched her neck to take in every blessed ray.
I laughed at myself. The last thing she has to worry about is skin cancer.
We got talking about a lot of stuff, including death.
I'm not afraid at all, says Louie, I just worry about leaving everyone behind.
She's not religious, Louie, nor am I.
No one knows what lies on that other side, and I reflected inwardly something I've said to Lou in earlier chats, and have often said to the kids.
They've asked me, more than once, as they've grown older - Dad what happens when we die?
I tell them what the different religions believe, about Heaven for the Christians, Jews and the people of Islam, about achieving Nirvana after a long cycle of reincarnations for Buddhists, and my favourite part of Buddhist belief.
That there is an ocean of universal life, and individual lives are like waves that rise up from it, travel for awhile, before falling back into that great universal sea.
In truth, we haven't a clue.
So I say to the kids, two things.
Did you know that every atom in your bodies formed inside stars billions of years ago?
No.
You're made of stardust.
Cool.
And remember before you were born?
No.
Was that so bad?
No.
Well that's the worst thing that can happen.
Their faces relax.
And when you die, one day you'll be stardust again.
Be the best you can, treat people the way you'd like to be treated, and whatever you choose to believe, don't force it on anybody else.
Just before I left Louise got some good news. Chemo is working. Better blood count. No more dialysis. You'll be home next week.
You could have bottled her smile.
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Just picked up some shots I had on an old roll of film. Mid last year we went and stayed at Allenvale, our friend's holiday cottages down at Lorne.
A more idyllic place you couldn't find, and a great getaway for us over many years.
Our fourteen year old, Joey, took his first steps here.
Allenvale lies on the back of the hill Lorne fronts, and is 10 minutes from any number of top surf spots... Cathedral Rock, Weeds, George River, and on, and on. A fantastic place to sit in front of a fire, too.
Platypus and trout live in the river that runs past the cottages.
This cottage, called Kero, is nearly 100 years old, and in the 70's was home to Wayne Lynch, who needs no introduction if you know your surf history.
Can you imagine a nicer place to live?
The other shot is a shot taken around the same time, pretty average Bells, but lovely light.
A more idyllic place you couldn't find, and a great getaway for us over many years.
Our fourteen year old, Joey, took his first steps here.
Allenvale lies on the back of the hill Lorne fronts, and is 10 minutes from any number of top surf spots... Cathedral Rock, Weeds, George River, and on, and on. A fantastic place to sit in front of a fire, too.
Platypus and trout live in the river that runs past the cottages.
This cottage, called Kero, is nearly 100 years old, and in the 70's was home to Wayne Lynch, who needs no introduction if you know your surf history.
Can you imagine a nicer place to live?
The other shot is a shot taken around the same time, pretty average Bells, but lovely light.
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Whipped down for a quick session today, just got back.
Good waves, apparently better yesterday, and a red hot left at Woolamai, amongst a myriad of good banks. Paddled out to a mellow 3 or four guys then 'THE LOCALS" hit, talking it up, complaining about the kooks, and then doing the shut everyone out and share waves routine.
After about an hour of this I gave it a miss, paddled over to the less than perfect right across the channel, and had a very pleasant couple of hours as the wave got much better, with a crew that knew how to smile.
The shots are later, the left has one last stalwart on it as the wind swung cross shore, and I couldn't be bothered sweltering (it's 38C. about 104F) waiting to get a shot of the right. The right shown was another, straight out the from of the carpark. It wasn't bad either.
There's a swell on the way.
Good waves, apparently better yesterday, and a red hot left at Woolamai, amongst a myriad of good banks. Paddled out to a mellow 3 or four guys then 'THE LOCALS" hit, talking it up, complaining about the kooks, and then doing the shut everyone out and share waves routine.
After about an hour of this I gave it a miss, paddled over to the less than perfect right across the channel, and had a very pleasant couple of hours as the wave got much better, with a crew that knew how to smile.
The shots are later, the left has one last stalwart on it as the wind swung cross shore, and I couldn't be bothered sweltering (it's 38C. about 104F) waiting to get a shot of the right. The right shown was another, straight out the from of the carpark. It wasn't bad either.
There's a swell on the way.
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