Sunday, December 10, 2006


Finally, after two weeks of working 12-16 hour days, plus moving house, hanging pictures, and just dealing with it all I managed to get a window. Off with Richie again, only to break down on the way. Almost gave it away but found the problem and after losing an hour, made it to Magics, again, just on the change of tide. No one out and a beautiful, fast, hollow right at 3-4 with the odd bigger one. Snuck off a shot, and hit it. First wave I realized it was one of those rare sessions when my body actually worked.

It all flowed. Snaps, cutties, 3 quick barrels, tons of fun. The board went where my old fart abilities willed it and and since it was my 6'3" fishy thing it was all at speed. Flopped off the board, lolled around, not a hassle in the world. I just hope it's not another 6 months before it all connects again.

What makes me laugh is that a session like that can happen when everything is fighting against it. Not in the water for 2 weeks and glowing under a cathode glow for most of the time. Can anyone work that out?

So here's this week's surf piccie. The fog is not fog, it's smoke. Half the state is on fire as I write this, it was 40C today (about 106F) and a scorcher.

We passed one fire driving back, the poor bloody firefighters were hard at it, and because of the conditions in SE Australia they're forecasting the fire may burn for months.

I hope they got a break at some stage and, if they were so inclined, managed to snag a wave.


Anonymous said...

Good on ya, welcome back!

Anonymous said...

Nice Mick for getting' out there. It makes it all that much more rewarding..or so they say. I wish I could still be a kid surfing 3 times dailies.

And big thanks to all the firefighters. Cool story on an Aussie firefighter/surf photog in this month's TSJ! Check it.